An insider’s guide to the art of hosting, with Bennelong’s Head Sommelier
Steven Pietersma talks the fundamentals of a great dinner party
AS WITH PERSONAL STYLE, entertaining does require a little careful consideration ahead of time to appear truly effortless. A few thoughtful details can take a dinner party from mundane to memorable, and can ensure that, rather than frantically second-guessing whether the Chardonnay or the Shiraz might work best for the next course, the host can just relax and – hopefully – even enjoy themselves a little.
Steven Pietersma honed his craft working in Michelin-starred kitchens in his home country of the Netherlands before heading to Quay Restaurant in 2019 as Head Sommelier.
Now Head Sommelier at Bennelong, the fine dining restaurant that spans three levels of the Sydney Opera House, he knows more than a few things about creating an unforgettable evening – not least the power of wine in not only complementing a meal, but enhancing the entire dining experience.
Below, Pietersma shares his formula for a winning soirée, from the fine art of structuring a wine menu across the evening, to why unexpected food and wine pairings can pay major gastronomical dividends.
Esquire: In your opinion, what are the three key components to creating a memorable evening?
Steven Pietersma: When I’m working my way around the dining room at Bennelong, I think it comes down to:
- Timing: Keep things moving at a comfortable pace. The best evenings have a natural flow where guests are always engaged and enjoying themselves, without ever feeling rushed. A great host knows when to keep things moving and when to let a moment linger.
- Personality: Stay down to earth and be yourself. There is no need to brag. It is not about you; it is about the guests you’re entertaining. Make them feel special and create an environment where everyone feels comfortable.
- Knowledge: Be prepared. Know what you’re serving, understand the story behind it and learn about your surroundings. Guests love asking questions and being able to answer them confidently adds another layer to the experience. It helps people feel more connected to what’s in front of them and makes the evening that much more memorable.
What’s your departure point when considering which wines to best pair with a meal? Where do you advise people start when selecting their wines for the evening?
Wine is very personal and everyone has their own preferences. You can do all the research in the world on classic pairings, but if it leads you to a wine or grape variety you simply do not enjoy, it becomes difficult to present with confidence. Start with wines you genuinely like drinking yourself, then narrow it down from there.
Do you advise sticking to classic food and wine pairings or can straying into unconventional territory deliver unexpected but delightful results? Can you share an example of where an unorthodox food and wine combination worked well at Bennelong?
I absolutely encourage both. There can be hundreds of wine options for a particular dish. At Quay, I created multiple wine pairings for many years. There was always a classic option, but also a more experimental one. For me, it comes down to reading the guest. Are they up for an adventure and keen to try something new, or would they prefer something familiar and comforting?
I am particularly fond of a pairing with our Chocolate and Cherry dessert. The obvious option would be a super-sweet fortified wine which is rich and lush. However, we like to pour a sparkling Bugey-Cerdon by Patrick Bottex with it. This is a super refreshing, slightly sweet wine from the south of France made from Gamay and Poulsard (red) grapes. It is so elegant that it cuts through all the sugars in the dessert itself but accompanies the red fruit characteristics with the cherry. A nice way to finish a meal.
For those less well-versed in wine, are there any wines that suit a plethora of cuisines, moods and occasions?
Spicy food with an off-dry Riesling. Big, bold reds with fatty meats. Oaked Chardonnay with richer fish dishes. Textured Chenin Blanc with shellfish and crustaceans. Bright, high-acid wines with oysters.
And, of course, celebrations with Champagne. While I’m a strong believer in drinking Champagne from a larger glass, there is still something iconic about raising a flute for a toast. Some traditions are hard to beat.
What are some tips for structuring a wine menu across the evening, from welcome drinks and the entrée to the main course and dessert?
It’s all about building intensity. You want each wine to have slightly more presence than the one before it, just as you would structure a menu.
You wouldn’t start dinner with a steak, so you would not start with a Barossa Shiraz. Begin with Champagne, followed by a bright, fresh wine. Build towards something more saline and textural, then move into an oaked Chardonnay before arriving at a red wine with the main course.
If you’re serving cheese, that can sit between the main course and dessert. It can work with another red wine, or it can be the point where you begin introducing a sweeter fortified style before finishing with a dessert wine.
Are there any standout wines that come with a slightly lower price tag? How do you advise incorporating them into the wine menu alongside more premium wines?
Premium wines are often premium because of their history, place, winemaker, production methods and reputation. That doesn’t mean lesser-known wines at a lower price point are any less enjoyable.
If you genuinely think a wine is delicious, that should be your starting point. When you believe in the wine, it’s easy to incorporate it into a menu, regardless of the price tag.
What trends are you seeing within the wine world that we should have on our radar?
Approachability. More and more wines are being released ready to drink straight away. In the past, many wines were released with the expectation that you would cellar them for years before they reached their peak. Not everyone has the time, space or patience for that anymore, and wineries have responded.
Don’t let the idea that every good wine needs years in a cellar stop you from buying a bottle. Treat yourself, open it and enjoy it now.
How do you approach selecting compelling alternative options for guests who are alcohol-free?
I think variety is what keeps it interesting. There are some excellent non-alcoholic alternatives on the market today, but drinking the same style all night can become a little repetitive. Have a mix of options available, whether that’s non-alcoholic beer, wine, spirits or a well-made mocktail.
Offer something sweeter, something tart and something savoury. It’s all about variation and keeping the palate excited for the next drink.
View the wine list here.
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