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AT THE US OPEN women’s final over the weekend, Brad Pitt wore one of the most understatedly elegant watches in his collection: a vintage Patek Philippe Reference 2526.

First introduced in the 1950s, it’s one of the Swiss manufacturer’s most historically significant early pieces. The real star of the show is the watch’s beautiful glossy fired enamel dial – a detail easy to overlook at a glance, but one that gives the gold case a luminous, almost painterly depth entirely absent from a conventional printed dial. It is the kind of sophistication that rewards the closer look.

Beneath the caseback, things get even more interesting. The Reference 2526 was Patek Philippe’s first serially produced automatic wristwatch, powered by the calibre 12-600 AT – a movement so painstakingly developed that Patek spent over two decades refining it while waiting for a Rolex patent to expire. Only around 7,100 were ever made. Many still consider it one of the finest automatic calibres in the history of watchmaking.

Sotheby’s

Among serious collectors, yellow gold examples with first-series enamel dials are among the most sought-after variants the reference produced. At auction, well-preserved examples regularly achieve six figures, and the market has only strengthened as the watch world’s appetite for mid-century Patek has grown. When new in 1953, a yellow gold 2526 sold for just 400 Swiss francs less than a reference 2499 – Patek’s storied perpetual calendar chronograph – which tells you exactly how seriously the manufacturer regarded it at the time.

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Pitt’s choice, then, feels entirely in character. No oversized sports watch, no diamond-set novelty, no conspicuous flex. Just a beautifully made, nearly 70-year-old Patek Philippe tucked under the cuff — and one of the most interesting vintage watches you’re likely to spot at a tennis match.


From Esquire UK

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