Body crazy curvy wavy.

CAVEAT: I like Cartier. There’s nary a watch they’ve dropped that didn’t immediately make me go “oooh that’s nice”. So bear with me if I speak overly fondly of their latest releases shown at the 2026 Watches and Wonders.

Part of the reason for my inclination is that Cartier sits in a rare market position. Few watchmakers move as easily between generations, appealing to first-time buyers as much as seasoned collectors. Unveiled at Watches and Wonders this year, its latest releases reinforce this cross-pollinated appeal. Part of that comes down to clarity. The design language is clear and consistent, the proportions of each timepiece consider not just the wrist but the entire body of work that goes into style, i.e. fashion. What could be formal instead feels easy and their savvy at delivering dress watches that look equally at home on the wrist of someone holding a pint and not a glass of Jacques Selosse is truly admirable.

But to their key new editions revealed at Watches and Wonders…

Santos-Dumont

The Santos-Dumont continues to shift the needle on what a dress watch should be. Where the category traditionally leans on leather straps and slim, discreet cases, Cartier approaches it through a jewellery lens. The mesh-link bracelet is central to the latest release. Constructed from hundreds of fine links, it sits soft against the wrist and is fluid in movement.

The dial reinforces that shift. In its most considered form, it is cut from obsidian, reduced to a fraction of a millimetre and polished to reveal a subtle play of light. Each example carries slight variation, a result of the material itself rather than applied decoration.

Underneath, the 430 MC manual movement keeps the profile slim, preserving the line of the case. The familiar Santos codes remain intact, from the exposed screws to the cabochon crown, but the overall effect is less about heritage signalling and more about how the watch wears. It moves easily between formal and casual settings without adjustment.

Roadster

Perhaps the most newsworthy release is the revival of Cartier’s iconic Roadster after more than two decades. Just with a slightly tightened execution. The case retains its familiar tonneau-like form, but the surfaces have been refined, the transitions between bezel, case and crown more cohesive. Dare we say Cartier has honed in on ergonomics?

There is a physicality to the watch that sets it apart within the collection. The case’s curvature sits firmly on the wrist, and the integrated crown and magnifier create a continuous profile. Details drawn from automotive design remain, including the rivets and the speedometer-style dial, though they are handled with restraint.

Inside, the automatic 1847 MC and 1899 MC movements provide the expected reliability, but the emphasis is on wear. The bracelet has been reworked with shorter links, but the standout is a new blue PVD dial paired with matching rubber strap, which, combined with the guaranteed 100m water resistance, takes it into utility territory. The result is a watch that reads as assertive without feeling overbuilt, shaped to the wrist rather than merely sitting on top of it.

Crash Squelette

My personal favourite from the new releases is the Crash Squelette from the Privé range, whose familiar distortions are made more explicit courtesy of a skeletonised configuration.

The calibre 1967 MC has been developed to follow the case, with bridges shaped as Roman numerals and beautifully arranged to fit within the warped geometry. The exposed movement has become the dial, with each component positioned to align with the case’s asymmetry.

Finished with hand-worked surfaces and a construction that balances visual complexity with legibility, the use of platinum and burgundy colour accents keeps the focus on the architecture. Produced in a limited run, it stands apart from the rest of the collection, not as an outlier but as a clear expression of Cartier’s approach. Form leads, and the mechanics follow.

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