Chanel reveals their dark side at Watches and Wonders
Including the perfect blue J12
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IT’S HARD TO believe that Chanel has been in the watch game for less than 40 years. In fact, 2027 will mark the official 40th year since they first revealed the Première back in 1987, a women’s timepiece that came with a case that echoed the stopper of the iconic No. 5 perfume bottle. But here we are, 39 years on, and the French Maison has become one of the most anticipated brands at Watches and Wonders in Geneva.
This year, Chanel continues to treat watchmaking as a natural extension of its broader design language. Fashion lay at the heart of the house and this framing is considered with equal weight, along with the usual technical elements, with every watch release.
In secondary news, the appointment of Pedro Pascal as a face of the brand seems to also signal a more deliberate move into unisex territory, one that feels aligned with how Chanel watches are already worn. The J12, in particular, has operated in that space for years, moving easily across wrists and incorporated into personal aesthetics of all genders.
Continue reading to see our favourite new releases from Chanel below.
J12 Golden Black Caliber 12.1 42 mm
We predict this one will be a huge hit for Chanel, commercially. The Chanel J12 Golden Black Caliber 12.1 42 mm is a limited edition watch that’s built on contrast. The 42 mm case and bracelet are highly resistant matte black ceramic, paired with steel elements in a black coating, while yellow gold-plated indexes elevate the dial.
A unidirectional rotating bezel in black-coated steel is set with a matte black ceramic ring. The sapphire crystal caseback is, nicely, marked “LIMITED EDITION” and reveals the Caliber 12.1, a self-winding manufacture movement produced by Kenissi. It is COSC-certified, with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours.
Functions are limited to hours, minutes, seconds and date. Water resistance is 200 metres. The oscillating weight matches the gold-plated indexes.
Monsieur Lion Tourbillon Black Edition
An absolute showstopper from the Maison, the Chanel Monsieur Lion Tourbillon Black Edition is limited to 55 pieces and built around the Caliber 5.1, an in-house manually wound movement produced by the Chanel Watch Manufacture. The 42 mm case is matte black, highly resistant ceramic, paired with a bezel and crown in black-coated steel.
The openworked dial reveals the movement, with a flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Inside the tourbillon cage sits a lion’s head, laser engraved in titanium, used as a signature detail of Chanel movements.
The Caliber 5.1 offers a 72 hour power reserve and runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour, with two spring barrels, a variable inertia balance and shock protection. It has 151 components and 28 rubies.
Functions are hours, minutes and seconds. Water resistance is 30 metres and covetability is 100 per cent.
J12 Bleu
Chanel’s J12 is the watch equivalent of their iconic tweed blazer. Absolutely timeless and perfectly wearable for every wrist. The Caliber 12.1 38 mm extends the line with a full matte blue ceramic execution across case, dial and bracelet. The 38 mm case is paired with a steel unidirectional rotating bezel set with a matte blue ceramic ring, while a 33 mm model sits alongside it, reinforcing the range’s flexible sizing.
The dial and bracelet carry the same tone, with a screw down steel crown finished with a ceramic cabochon. Water resistance is 200 metres. Inside is the Caliber 12.1, a self winding manufacture movement produced by Kenissi, COSC certified with a 70 hour power reserve and visible through a sapphire caseback. Functions are hours, minutes, seconds and date.
It’s rare that I would say something is perfect shade of blue (I feel quite strongly about this colour) but this is definitely up there.
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