Why Brisbane restaurant Evra will have you coming back for more
Again and again and again
By 
IN MID 2025, Brisbane eatery Evra finally opened its doors after a long 18 months of development and planning. It occupies a prominent corner site within Long Island Brisbane, a mixed-use precinct that has quickly established itself as one of the city’s most considered dining and retail hubs. Anchored by design-led hospitality and everyday utility, Long Island is structured to reward regular use rather than one-off visits – a context that suits Evra’s ambitions neatly. Sitting alongside Baker D. Chirico, the restaurant benefits from an already active neighbourhood rhythm, with morning trade, walk-ins and return diners built into the fabric of the precinct.
Helmed by executive chef Kelvin Andrews, the high-ceilinged, produce-forward restaurant came to life with a concise brief: to cook Australian ingredients at their best, maintain a disciplined technique in the kitchen, and make the place feel easy enough to return to regularly.
Evra’s defining feature is its rooftop farm, which supplies the kitchen with herbs, leafy greens, edible flowers and seasonal vegetables harvested daily. Chefs collect produce from the roof each morning based on service requirements, often only hours before it appears on the menu. Kitchen waste is composted back into the rooftop soil, creating a closed loop that directly links preparation, service and growing conditions. The farm operates as an active supply source, rather than a symbolic gesture, with its output influencing menu decisions in real time and offering diners a direct connection to where their food originates.
This is exactly what lies at the heart of Evra’s raison d’être, Andrews tells <Esquire>. “Evra’s philosophy is built on connection,” he says. “To the land, the ocean, the producers behind every ingredient, and the people who sit down to share a meal with us each evening.”
Lofty, perhaps, but the impact of this thinking is tangible on the plate. Every dish is constructed with a clear point of view and sense of proportion. Andrews’ cooking philosophy centres on minimal intervention and precision rather than display. “I like to work with high-quality produce, particularly when it’s at its peak and in-season, and then prepare it quite simply by using supporting ingredients to elevate the hero flavour,” he says.
The menu reflects that restraint in clear, practical ways. The steak tartare is finely hand-cut rather than minced, seasoned lightly and served cold, allowing the texture of the beef to remain distinct. A risotto built around South Australian marron is cooked to a loose consistency, finished without excess fat and structured to keep the sweetness of the shellfish intact. Hand-rolled cannelloni filled with seasonal sweet corn oozes freshness and natural sweetness, supported by a restrained sauce rather than weight.
One of the more telling dishes is the <cou farci>, a classical preparation using duck- and chicken-neck skin as casing. It is smoked briefly, then roasted, and served without additional garnish. The technique is traditional, and the preparation prioritises texture and even cooking rather than reinterpretation.
Mains are structured around protein but remain balanced in portion and preparation. Steaks are cooked over controlled heat to emphasise flavour and texture without heavy charring or added sauces. Poultry is roasted to retain moisture and served with minimal accompaniment. Seafood changes according to availability and is cooked using familiar and straightforward methods – grilling, roasting or gentle finishing – which helps preserve the food’s natural character and innate flavours. Vegetables are on offer both as sides or as central elements and follow a seasonal approach.
Two dishes in particular are emblematic of the Evra philosophy. An Aylesbury duck with fermented plum and organic soy plays on the dish’s contrasting acidity and richness – without the usual addition of sweetness or thickened sauces. For crustacean lovers, an inventive mud-crab lasagne layers crab meat and fondue with pasta sheets and zucchini flowers.
For drinks, Andrews tapped sommelier Alex Menzies to build a wine list that would accentuate the menu’s seasonality and hero the Australian landscape. “Our wine list is a love letter to Australian terroir,” he says. “The selection is a celebration of the growers, makers and mavericks redefining modern viticulture. From biodynamic vineyards in the Adelaide Hills to cool-climate pinots from the Yarra Valley, every bottle tells a story of place and philosophy.”
Beyond the food, Evra has also tapped into that other secret ingredient for a successful restaurant: design. As you enter, you’re immediately taken by the dining room’s high ceilings, which give a sense of vastness. An open kitchen is positioned as part of the space rather than a focal point. Seating is divided between standard dining tables, banquettes and a semi-enclosed greenhouse-style area, allowing the room to shift between lunch, dinner and bar-led service. The bar itself functions as a primary entry point, too, rather than a secondary space.
Walk-ins are accommodated with access to the full menu, supporting shorter visits alongside longer meals. Service is structured to allow guests to dine at different paces, whether that’s simply stopping in briefly or settling in for something more robust. It’s a relaxed sensibility that takes Evra out of the traditional hospitality experience and makes it feel more like you’re swinging by a close friend’s house for a meal. Which is, says Andrew, what he wants people to feel when they come by. Frequently.
“Our food is designed to be enjoyed often,” he says. “Once, twice, even three times a week, without feeling indulgent.”
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