Gowings knows how to put on a show
In a culinary landscape that’s increasingly leaning towards specialisation, Gowings makes a compelling case for doing everything – from steak, seafood and pasta to theatre – exceptionally well
By Cayle Reid
LEADING YOU UP THE industrial-style staircase towards Gowings, the Sydney-based dining spot reveals its hand. You pick up on the unmistakable energy of a restaurant that doesn’t so much as serve meals as it does stage them – and it’s not just because the State Theatre sits just beneath your feet.
Gowings leans into the stylings of Little Italy and New York steakhouses, though it’s through a distinctly modern Sydney lens. The menu is a reflection of the interiors and architectural style, nodding to that New York steakhouse lineage with big cuts and big flavours, but it’s sharpened by Italian flair and top-notch Australian produce.
Such variety might sound like too many chefs in the kitchen, but assuredly, Gowings makes it work. Hyper-focused venues are all the rage these days – we’re thinking of those steakhouses with just a single cut on the menu – but Gowings resists the urge to narrow its scope. Instead, it broadens it. And it’s better for it.
Executive chef James Kidman describes Gowings’ ethos simply: “great quality produce, served in an elevated but simple way,” he says, emphasising that variety is central to the offering. “I like to think that we’re a more classic style brasserie steakhouse. You’re not coming in and having to order one thing. You’re coming in for a meal.”
Take the deeply marbled Bistecca alla Fiorentina T-bone, zesty rock flathead or succulent chicken saltimbocca as evidence that this isn’t a kitchen tethered to one identity. There are rich pastas alongside fresh seafood, generous salads and the expected procession of steaks. And it’s telling that, even with the seafood and exquisite cuts of meat on offer, Kidman’s favourite item on the menu is a chestnut flour pappardelle with braised rabbit.
“We’re not the kind of restaurant where you come in and you have to have one steak,” explains Kidman. “You’re coming in for a meal, and that meal traverses everything from when you first sit down and you have entrees and bread, to when you go into mains to finishing off with dessert.”
The menu evolves constantly, with two major revisions each year and smaller seasonal shifts throughout. It’s a structure that allows the kitchen to stay fresh without losing its core identity, which is something Kidman seems intent on preserving.
Outside of the food, Gowings’ philosophy takes that theatric energy and makes it a delicious prop – not in a gimmicky sense, like tableside dances and over-the-top presentation, but in the idea that dining should engage more senses than just taste. The open kitchen, flare of the grill and flourishes of character from the artwork and New York-style stage lights hanging overhead are all part of the same composition.
Gowings’ service style is professionally playful. There’s polish, certainly, but also personality. Staff guide rather than hover and are equally comfortable recommending a bottle from the lengthy wine list as they are topping up a glass without interrupting the flow of conversation.
Drinks, unsurprisingly, carry their own weight. Classics like martinis and margaritas are reworked with seasonal touches, while the wine offering is almost encyclopaedic, but not inaccessible. In terms of the atmosphere, Gowings doesn’t do quiet minimalism. The clink of glasses, the low thrum of music and the occasional burst of laughter all build into what the venue describes as a “rumbling rhythm.”
For all its theatrics, though, the restaurant doesn’t lose sight of its role within the city. Lunch specials like the Midday Edit – a rotating $39 menu aimed at busy CBD workers – offers a more accessible entry point into the experience. Likewise, the Sips N’ Snacks happy hour (3–6pm, Monday to Saturday) invites the after-work crowd, bridging the gap between bar and restaurant.
Kidman acknowledges that it’s a balancing act. “It’s about enticing people in,” he says, “but also showing them what else we can do.” It’s a strategy that reflects the broader ethos: give diners options, trust them to choose, and deliver across the board.
That extends to the question of balance versus indulgence. In a city increasingly preoccupied with wellness, Gowings doesn’t attempt to moralise the menu. “It’s not my job to count someone else’s calories,” Kidman says jocularly. It’s a refreshingly direct stance that feels aligned with the restaurant’s personality. Kidman’s advice is to treat visits “as a special occasion and allow yourself to indulge.”
From the entrance to the final bite, Gowings delivers a dining experience that feels like an event. Whether that’s a long lunch, a late-night celebration, or knocking off work because you got carried away enjoying the Sips N’ Snacks happy hour. With a culinary scene that prizes specialisation more than ever, Gowings makes a persuasive case for a little more volume.
Have we convinced you? Making a reservation at Gowings right now at this link.
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