TRANSLATING their house codes of lightness and ease that underpin their clothing has always meant that Hermès approaches watchmaking with a slightly different set of priorities. The emphasis tends to fall on how a watch occupies space, how it reads quickly and efficiently, but most importantly how comfortably it integrates into daily wear. That sensibility came into clearer focus at this year’s Watches and Wonders with a series of playfully light new creations, starting with the H08 Squelette.

The H08 has always been defined by its ambiguous geometry. A squared circle, its softened edges and compact proportions made this an instant hit upon release. In this new Squelette iteration, that familiar shape remains, but the dial has been reworked to reveal the structure beneath. This openworked construction introduces a sense of depth and movement that shifts as the watch is worn. It may sound contradictory, given the machinery now in display, but this visual clarity only adds to that sense of lightness we mentioned courtesy of the watches new transparency.

There’s also a new engine, courtesy of an Hermès H1978 S movement. Developed as a skeletonised evolution of the existing calibre, it retains a relatively slim profile while allowing for a more considered presentation of its components. Bridges and mainplate are treated in titanium, creating a muted, technical backdrop against the gears.

This is all housed inside a 39 mm case, executed in satin-brushed titanium with a ceramic bezel, maintaining the H08’s everyday wearability. Colour is used sparingly but effectively, particularly in the blue execution where Super-LumiNova hour markers reinforce the graphic nature of the design. It must be said that even with the increased visual complexity of the skeletonised dial, the watch remains easy to read, a point that reflects Hermès’ long-standing focus on clarity.

Also shown were two new Slim d’Hermès styles: a Squelette Lune and stunning piece of watchmaking and a Slim D’Hermès Pocket “Roaaaaar!”. To pick one is almost impossible. Almost – but like any true Leo, it’s the Roaaaaar that’s won my attention.

Slim d’Hermès Pocket “Roaaaaar!”

Where the H08 Squelette draws out attention inwards, the Slim d’Hermès Pocket “Roaaaaar!” playfully looks outward with its focus on surface and craft. The Slim d’Hermès has been a platform for the house’s métiers d’art, and here it is adapted into a pocket format that places emphasis on tactility and detail.

The cover is formed using wood marquetry, translating a lion motif originally created for Hermès silk into a composition built entirely from multiple species of wood. The mane, the tooth, the jaw – each fragment selected for its tone and grain before being cut, assembled and finished by hand. The result has a depth that shifts subtly as it catches the light, offering a contrast to the enamel dial beneath. That dial, executed in Grand Feu enamel with a herringbone pattern that becomes visible as the surface catches the light.

Technically, the Roaaaaar! keeps things classic. The ultra-thin H1950 movement provides hours and minutes, allowing the focus to remain on the exterior work rather than the complication. The 45 mm white gold case is paired with a cord strap and pouch, reinforcing its position as an object that sits slightly outside the conventions of wristwatch design.

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