THERE IS NOTHING quite like the smell of a steak sizzling over charcoal on a summer afternoon. For me, barbecuing is not just cooking. It is a way of life. I am a fifth-generation butcher with an almost obsessive love of live fire, and over the years I have collected almost a dozen grills and barbeques, from spit roasters to American-inspired smokers and a Japanese Kamado. That pursuit has taught me one thing above all else. Cooking over real fire touches something primal and deeply satisfying, and when done well, it delivers flavour you simply cannot achieve any other way. At its essence, cooking over fire is how man first learnt how to cook.

Let me share what decades in the meat business have taught me about nailing the ultimate summer barbecue.

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Read more of Anthony Puharich’s column here:

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How to nail the ultimate summer barbeque, according to a butcher

The wood makes it good

Gas might be convenient, but charcoal and wood are my fuels of choice. They give meat a richness and depth that gas cannot replicate. There is a romance in tending coals, adjusting the airflow and watching real flames kiss the meat. It’s a method that’s hands-on, elemental and rewarding.

If you want to lift your game, invest in quality fuel. Natural lump charcoal like Gidgee and Mallee root burns hotter and cleaner and binchotan, the Japanese white oak charcoal, is the ultimate and a favourite of mine for its purity and consistent high heat. Charcoal grilling takes more effort, but the payoff is in the flavour.

Think feast

A great barbecue celebrates variety. I love a smorgasbord-style spread with a little of everything: steak, lamb cutlets, pork chops, Asado cut beef ribs, some marinated chicken and pork skewers of varying flavours, a few quality snags – and it would be un-Australian if you didn’t throw a few prawns on the barbie for good measure. Mixing beef, lamb, pork and seafood keeps things interesting and gives everyone something they love.

I also prefer to cook large hero cuts to share rather than handing out individual pieces. A big prime cut carved at the table creates atmosphere and allows everyone to enjoy a taste of each cut. Whole butterflied and marinated legs of lamb, a whole side of flank, a big Bistecca or rib eye on the bone all become spectacular centrepieces when grilled properly. The reveal alone is worth it. Go big and make it communal. It elevates the barbecue from a meal to an event.

Cut to the chase

Choosing the right cuts is half the battle. My personal favourite steak for the grill is the classic T-bone. You get sirloin on one side, tenderloin on the other and the bone helps keep everything nice and juicy. I also love Scotch fillet and rib eye on the bone, both beautifully marbled and perfect for high heat. I prefer steaks cut thick, at least three to five centimetres, so they build a great crust without overcooking inside. For lamb, cutlets are always a winner and if you want to drop jaws, nothing beats a huge beef tomahawk.

But some of the most rewarding cuts are the lesser-known ones. Rump is a more affordable option that still delivers fantastic flavour. Flank, inside skirt and flat iron are brilliant on the grill, especially when treated with a simple marinade and cooked hot and fast. The flat iron in particular is one of the most underrated cuts in the animal, taken from the shoulder and incredibly tender and bursting with beefy flavour when cooked correctly.

Then there is the hanging tender, the butcher’s secret. Only one per animal, around six to seven hundred grams in weight, rich, beefy and tender with a texture all its own. Grilled simply and sliced against the grain, it is unforgettable. If your butcher has one, do yourself a favour and grab it.

Butterflied lamb leg is another favourite of mine and a cheaper alternative to chops and cutlets. It is perfect for marinating and cooks like a giant steak. It feeds a crowd and delivers enormous flavour. Skewers are also fantastic. Marinated chicken, pork, beef or lamb threaded on sticks cook quickly and are easy to serve. And, of course, no Australian barbecue is complete without sausages, from classic beef to chorizo and gourmet varieties.

Season like a pro

When it comes to seasoning, simplicity is key. A beautiful dry aged rib eye or T-bone does not need anything more than a good sprinkle of flaky sea salt and a touch of oil. I avoid cracked pepper before cooking because it can burn on a hot surface and turn bitter. Grind pepper after cooking if you like. Season generously with flaky sea salt just before the meat hits the grill.

Oil the meat, not the grill. A light brush of olive oil on the steak ensures a clean sear and avoids flare-ups. This small tip alone will improve your grilling in an instant.

Marinades have their place but are best saved for the tougher or more affordable cuts. A butterflied leg of lamb marinated overnight with rosemary, garlic, oil, salt and lemon becomes smoky, juicy and irresistible. Flank or skirt steak love marinades with soy, ginger, garlic and honey that caramelise beautifully over charcoal. Whatever you marinate, do not let it sit for days, and pat it lightly before cooking so the meat sears rather than steams.

Once you have seasoned your meat, the most important step is heat. Get your grill smoking hot before anything touches it. High heat gives you the caramelised crust that makes a steak unforgettable. If the grill is too cool, the meat will stew rather than sear.

Take the meat out of the fridge 20-30 minutes before cooking so it is not ice cold and allow the meat to get to room temperature before patting it dry for better browning. For me, a great steak is all about respect for the craft and an instinctive feel for the meat. Recently, the old habit of leaving a steak untouched on one side before flipping has been left behind. The truth is simple: turning the steak every 20-30 seconds is the most effective way to build a deep, even crust while keeping the centre tender. As a guide, allow two-to-three minutes’ cooking time per centimetre for medium rare. A steak around four centimetres thick will take close to 12 minutes in total using this approach, giving you that rich caramelised finish on the outside and a blushing, succulent centre.

Perfect your timinig

To determine ‘doneness’ for your steaks, you can use the touch-test if experienced, or a meat thermometer if not. Aim to take your steaks off the grill when the internal temperature hits 52°C. The meat will keep cooking while resting, rising to 54°, giving you a perfect medium-rare steak.

When cooking a variety of meats for a large group, I always begin with the items that will take the longest to cook. Chicken goes on first, thick steaks and sausages follow. Pork and lamb pieces come next as they cook a little faster. Burgers, thin cuts and seafood go last. This keeps everything timed well and prevents staggered serving.

Once cooked, rest your meat. This is a non-negotiable. Resting allows the meat to relax and the juices to settle back into the meat evenly. For steaks, rest for about half the cooking time. Cover loosely with foil and let the magic happen. Slice certain cuts against the grain and always pour any resting juices back over the meat before serving. That is pure flavour.

Get a side hustle

Balance your table with simple sides, fresh salads, grilled vegetables and sauces that complement rather than mask the meat.

Above all else, enjoy the experience. Each cook teaches you something new. Embrace the wins and the mishaps, and keep refining your craft. A sunny afternoon, good meat, great company and the aroma of charcoal are some of life’s great pleasures.

And finally, my golden rule: make sure the beer is cold. With an ice-cold beer in hand, everything else will work out just fine.

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