SURE, household names carry some serious clout and bragging rights in the watch world, but there’s something to be said about underdog independents that are equally deserving of a spot in your collection.

While the big Swiss houses spend decades polishing their legacies, independent brands like MING have the luxury of colouring outside the lines. Unburdened by centuries of tradition, they can take risks, play with design and quietly remind the old guard that history is impressive, but it isn’t everything – and their latest release confirms just that.

Founded in Malaysia in 2017 by Ming Thein, the designer, photographer and engineer set out to launch a brand that is “selfish,” as per their brand manifesto. In essence, they conjure timepieces that they find most interesting, and hope that the result resonates.

In truth, it does, and particularly so for the brand’s latest offering this week: the MING 37.06 Royal Selangor. It embraces MING’s DNA from the outset, known for experimenting with materials like tantalum and magnesium alloys to evoke a more tactile experience for the wearer, in ways that 904L stainless steel could never. In this newest instance, MING boldly incorporates pewter into the mix, framing this rarely-used material as the centrepiece.

What’s so special about another grey alloy, you ask? Quite a lot, actually. Pewter might not sound like the obvious choice for a luxury watch: it’s soft, it melts easily making precision mechanics somewhat challenging. Let’s just say it’s hardly known for making a machinist’s day enjoyable. But founder Thein clearly looked at the periodic table and thought let’s have at it. Teaming up with Malaysian pewter masters Royal Selangor, the independent watch brand decided to do what it does best: ignore the rulebook and turn the unlikely into something rather brilliant.

Such is why, at the forefront of the watch is a hammered pewter dial that catches the light from every angle, with a textured effect. Over time, it embraces a cloak of patina, due to the alchemy of tin, copper, and antimony (atomic symbol Sb for those who still have nightmares reciting said periodic table as a tweenager). Poured into steel casting models, it’s then polished, finished and decorated, each dial with its own unique character.

It’s not a new model per se, more an exciting variation on a theme, housed inside the brand’s signature 37-series, protected by a Grade 2 titanium case, and measuring 38mm in diameter. As for its innards, it’s charged by a trusty Swiss Made Sellita for MING (SW300.M1 for the uninitiated) giving you 50 solid hours to admire the neat curves and arcs of the hammered pewter dial.

Complex materials aside, this launch marks a first for MING, with the entire run of just 88 pieces assembled in Kuala Lumpur. It’s a celebration of watchmaking beyond the traditional Swiss nucleus – and, fittingly, the story of its becoming is just as charMING as the watch itself. The idea was born over a long lunch between MING founder Ming Thein and the CEO of Royal Selangor, sparked by a client’s rather innocent request for Thein to collect a camera. So, if there’s one lesson here, it’s that curiosity pays dividends: embrace the difficult materials, divert from what is alchemically obvious, and never underestimate what can come from a long lunch. Reservations, and now watch registrations at the ready.

A small batch of watches will be available to order through MING’s website starting 6 August 2026, at 10:00 AM GMT. Register your interest here.

From Esquire UK