PIAGET has been hitting some serious design high notes the past few years. Its relaunch of its Polo 79 re-established itself as a central pillar. At the same time, renewed attention on the Andy Warhol model tapped into the nostalgia zeitgeist, tinged with a desire for a little decadence that didn’t involve overly complicated detail. With both lines already in place, the focus at this year’s Watches and Wonders turned to materials and colour with a series of new stone dials, including a spectacular blue sodalite dial for their Polo 79. 

Polo 79

The expansion of the Polo 79 line continues with the introduction of the Polo 79 Sodalite, the first Polo to come with a stone dial. When Piaget reintroduced the Polo 79 it was a moderately tweaked modernised version of the original design, its gold form defined by its continuous gadrooned case and bracelet construction. It was a flash piece of hardwear, a huge part of its appeal. In this new execution, the addition of a sodalite dial paired with 18k white gold feels subtler despite the contrasts having their own dramatic appeal.

Sodalite is characterised by its deep blue tone, often marked by lighter veining that creates a natural variation across the surface. As with other ornamental stones used by Piaget, each dial is unique. Within the context of the Polo 79, the dial provides a point of contrast to the case and bracelet. The gadroons, which define the identity of the watch, remain unchanged, creating a consistent frame around a more variable centre while slicing through the dial itself. 

Piaget’s history of playing with ornamental stones began in 1963, incorporating lapis lazuli, turquoise, malachite and tiger’s eye into its watches. These stones are cut to extremely fine tolerances, sometimes as thin as 0.4 millimetres, before being polished to achieve a stable, even surface. The process requires careful handling throughout, with a high risk of breakage that limits production and reinforces each piece’s individuality.

Swinging Pebbles

From a personal style perspective, perhaps the most interesting new launch was a series of pendant watches and one that tickled me personally – who doesn’t love a novel necklace – that positions the watch as an object worn beyond the wrist. A pocketwatch for the neck, did you say? The Swinging Pebbles necklaces integrate the case and dial into a single carved stone, suspended from a hand-crafted gold chain. The three on show in Geneva were made from tiger’s eye, verdite and pietersite, each selected for their natural surface qualities, with the structure of each piece shaped directly by the material itself.

For those who are more invested in more in machinery than aesthetics, there was the stunning, slender, Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon.

Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon

The Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon continues Piaget’s work in ultra-thin watchmaking, now incorporating ornamental stone into a case that measures 2mm in total thickness. This development builds on the technical foundation established by the 9P movement of 1957, which enabled greater flexibility in dial design by reducing overall case height. That shift allowed the dial to take on a more prominent role, including the use of decorative materials such as stone.

Integrating ornamental stone into a structure of this scale presents clear technical constraints. The material must be cut, positioned and secured within components that are already reduced to minimal tolerances. Assembly requires a high degree of precision, including operations carried out with tools as fine as a 0.15mm needle, reflecting the level of control needed to avoid damage during handling.

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