IT WAS a nostalgic moment for me when I arrived at Palazzo Ralph Lauren in Milan for his Spring 2027 show, having attended Lauren’s first menswear show over two decades ago in 2002. This was shortly after the designer had opened the exclusive private headquarters.

Ralph Lauren had purchased the historic 1941 Mino Fiocchi building in 1999 and went on to create a stunning Palazzo in his signature Ralph aesthetic. That milestone 2002 show blended high-end luxury with classic Ralph Lauren DNA and featured some of the leading men’s models of the day. Fast forward to 2026 and the forward-looking spring/summer 2027 collection and the formula hasn’t changed.

Which brings me to the question: what makes a great fashion show?

Obviously, the clothes. But when RL puts together a show, it’s about so much more. Detail, detail, and detail.

This season, Purple Label unfolded across three distinct chapters, opening in neutral and indigo tones before moving into a golden-age-of-racing moment on the Italian lakes, where Art Deco precision borrowed from mahogany speedboat hulls turned up in sport-inspired outerwear and featherweight, deconstructed neckties. The dynamic casting heralded the eclectic looks that graced the runway, making each exit look as though it was exclusively designed for each model.

In Ralph’s signature style, the unexpected combination of sportswear and tailoring truly hit the mark, as did every accessory that never looked out of place. I particularly loved the silver Navajo-inspired jewellery – drawing, I later learned, on the scrollwork of one of Ralph’s own vintage rodeo buckles – worn alongside the classic tailoring for a modern edge.

The reinterpreted classic evening slipper looked thoroughly street-style when worn with the electric madras plaids that ran through much of the Polo Ralph Lauren collection, part of a next-generation take on American prep mixed with outdoor performance gear.

All in all, a stunning feat of detailed styling, fine tailoring, and a DNA that feels as relevant today as it did when I first experienced that dynamic show back in 2002.

Here are some of more my favourite looks and details.

Related:

Ralph Lauren proves he will always be the GOAT of menswear

Polo Ralph Lauren launches their A Sporting Life campaign in true Ralph Lauren style