Five Fits With: Kowtow designer Dayne Johnston
The Wellington-based designer chats with Esquire about his first significant purchase, how his personal style has changed over the years and his advice for young creatives
By 
WHEN DAYNE JOHNSTON was studying fashion design at Wellington Polytechnic in the mid-90s, he spent some of his student loans to buy one of the decade’s menswear holy-grails: a pair of Dirk Bikkemberg ski boots. He visited his local Zambesi – the New Zealand label and store that’s been carrying avant-garde international brands since 1979 – to purchase the $600 boots. “They were black with a ski-boot toe, a fluorescent orange stripe, an asymmetric design with zips with chain ball details,” he says. “It was my first real taste of investing in fashion.”
It’s a common early tale for fashion fans to spend large on one great find. To Johnston, the Belgian designer’s boots represented the European fashion scene that was worlds away from his roots in Wānaka, Central Otago. By the new millennium, Johnston would become Zambesi’s menswear designer and buyer, making the twice-annual pilgrimage to Paris Men’s Fashion Week where he met his hero designers Dries Van Noten (an Antwerp Six contemporary of Bikkemberg’s), Raf Simons, Rick Owens, and Jonathan Anderson. He would stay at the brand for two decades, before being appointed Head Designer at fellow Kiwi label Kowtow.
Since his appointment in 2023, Johnston has brought his international sensibility for thoughtful clothing to founder Gosia Piątek’s ‘radical transparency’ approach to slow fashion. This informed the label into launching a dedicated menswear line with his first collection. “For years, men were buying from our womenswear collection, which showed us there was a real demand for thoughtfully designed, sustainably made pieces,” says Johnston. “So rather than just scaling up existing shapes, we’ve focused on tailoring silhouettes specifically for a man’s silhouette.”
Like the brand’s use of Fairtrade organic cotton, Johnston admits that designing at Kowtow takes a similarly organic process. Instead of looking to faraway shores, elements of nature and art closer to home strike Johnston for his desired palettes and mood in a collection. The Cityscape print, for instance, with its swirling neon lines, was taken from a long-exposure photo Johnston took of the Wellington waterfront while taking his French Bulldog, Angus, for an evening stroll.
And that’s usually where you’ll find Johnston. Or, he’ll be people watching around Cuba Street, or heading to the cinema, absorbing visual inspiration. Recently, the Kowtow designer took Esquire through five of his favourite fits while telling us about his style rules, how his taste in fashion has changed over his career, what’s in his media diet, his thoughts on the current menswear scene in New Zealand, and his advice to young creatives wanting to make a mark in the industry.
Fit one
Esquire: Firstly, where did you grow up, and where do you currently call home?
Dayne Johnston: I grew up in Wānaka, Central Otago – back when it was still a quiet little town, off the beaten track with a population of 1500 people. I then spent over 20 years in Auckland, building my career and immersing myself in the fashion world. In 2023, I made the move to Wellington for the role as Head Designer at Kowtow, and now I proudly call Te Whanganui-a-Tara, my home.
What was considered ‘stylish’ or ‘cool’ when you were growing up?
I attended Mount Aspiring College, which was a pretty small and isolated school. In my 6th and 7th form years students from bigger cities would come in and they brought a whole new energy with them. I remember being especially influenced by a friend I had, Martin who was from Wellington. He and the other city kids had such a different perspective. They were into music, art, and fashion in a way that felt fresh and exciting to have that injection into my life. Baggy Levis jeans and made in England Dr. Marten lace-ups were my go to and in some ways still are.
How did you first become interested in clothing and style?
Fashion has always been everything to me. I knew from a very young age that this was what I wanted to do and a big part of that came from my mother, Helen. She sews and adores clothes so I was surrounded by that passion early on.
My parents owned a gift store and right next door was a haberdashery and clothing store. I ended up doing an internship with Janice and Carrick Jones at their store ‘Jone’s of Wānaka’ which was a huge turning point. It gave me the opportunity to learn about fabric, fashion, window dressing and craft in a really hands-on way. Growing up in Wānaka, that experience had a massive influence on me.
By the time I was in 6th form, I was already fully committed to pursuing fashion. I even took a correspondence course in clothing and textile, which just reinforced that this was the path I wanted to follow.
Fit two
What was your first significant purchase?
My first significant purchase was a pair of Dirk Bikkemberg ski boots from Zambesi when I was about 18. They were so cool. They were black with a ski-boot toe, a fluorescent orange stripe, an asymmetric design with zips with chain ball details.
They were made in Belgium, and at $600 were a big purchase for a student in the ’90s. But I used my student loan to pay for them, it was my first real taste of investing in fashion.
Do you still have the boots?
I bought these boots in 1996 and I sold them when I moved to Wellington in 2023. The boots were still in great condition, I had looked after them well. They did go to a good home, my friend Matt has them now.
What’s your most recent pick-up?
My most recent pick-up is the ‘Workwear Jean’ in ‘Earth’ Denim. They’re a new Kowtow menswear piece I was drawn to right from the design phase.
It took 18 months to bring them to life, so finally getting my hands on a pair felt like a long-awaited reward. I started seeing people wearing them around the workroom and had FOMO so I had to get a pair.
I love wearing them with a white tee, they’re the kind of jeans that will see me through the entire winter, such a universal piece.
What was the first piece of clothing you ever designed?
It’s hard to pinpoint just one! I made a lot of things at school and during fashion school, but one of the most memorable early pieces was a black hooded duffle coat I designed for Zambesi. It was made from black wool felt, unlined with handstitched domes and part of my first collection there, ‘Wild at Heart’.
We showed it in 2003 at the old post office in Britomart, Auckland, which was still under renovation at the time. The raw, unfinished space gave the whole show this incredible international atmosphere, and it sticks in my mind as a career highlight.
Fit three
Do you have any style rules, or dos and don’ts in general?
Don’t overthink it. The best outfits come together when you’re not forcing it, just wear what feels natural.
I also believe in actually wearing your clothes. Don’t save things ‘for good’ – your best pieces should be part of your everyday life, not tucked away for special occasions. There’s something great about throwing on a well-loved piece and making it your own, rather than keeping it pristine in the wardrobe.
Most importantly, dress to please yourself, not others.
Tell us a bit about your design process at Kowtow.
Design at Kowtow is an organic process but it always starts with a strong foundation, an idea
that feels meaningful to the collection. I usually begin with a single point of inspiration, whether it’s an element of nature or a specific piece of art that resonates. From there, I build out the palette, the mood and the feeling of the collection. Keeping it focused allows the details to evolve naturally while maintaining a clear direction.
At the same time, the process is incredibly collaborative. As a design team, we all bring ideas to the table and I work to bring them together into a cohesive collection. I love vintage shopping for inspiration and to study construction and craftsmanship of certain pieces.
Our production team is also a huge part of the process. There’s always a dialogue that helps solve design challenges and pushes ideas further. Kowtow is an amazing resource in that way – everyone is highly skilled at what they do and that level of collaboration makes the work stronger.
What direction do you want to take menswear at Kowtow?
Our menswear lens is creating an everyday wardrobe in Fairtrade organic cotton.
For years, men were buying from our womenswear collection, which showed us there was a real demand for thoughtfully designed, sustainably made pieces. So rather than just scaling up existing shapes, we’ve focused on tailoring silhouettes specifically for a man’s silhouette.
We’re taking a tailored streetwear approach, I want it to be accessible and wearable. While the menswear collection echoes Kowtow’s womenswear DNA, it’s also carving out a space of its own, introducing a whole new customer base to the brand.
How do you keep yourself open to inspiration?
International inspiration is a big one for me. Often new ideas are fuelled for me by drawing from my experiences in big cities. Being in a fresh environment, seeing how people dress, how they live is very stimulating for me. I love Paris, I often go for Christmas – it’s such a magical place. I have close friends who live there and it’s always wonderful to catch up and experience the city like a local.
Collaboration is another huge part of staying inspired. At Kowtow, we have an incredibly dynamic team and bouncing ideas around with them is always energising. We also work with guest designers in the atelier and collaborate with people remotely, which brings in new influences and keeps the process evolving.
I have regular meetings with Gosia Piątek, our founder and creative director, who’s based in London. Those weekly catch-ups are invaluable, they push the design process forward in a really meaningful way.
And then, there’s the everyday inspiration like watching people on the street, especially in Wellington. There’s a raw, grungy energy to how people dress here, particularly around Cuba Street. That mix of youthful experimentation and vintage street-style is something I’m always absorbing.
Fit four
What’s currently in your media diet?
I’m all about visual inspiration. I religiously read Fantastic Man and The Gentlewoman – they always give me a sense of fresh, refined creativity. I’m also constantly on Instagram, soaking up everything from fashion, to design to art.
Going to the cinema to see a film feels like a ritual for me, there’s something special about that experience. I like to go to the Lighthouse Cinema here in Wellington, it’s my time to switch off and just absorb.
On the music front, I recently saw Finn Andrews from The Veils at meowNui. That’s definitely on my radar right now; it was an incredible gig. I’m such a fan of his music and seeing him live was super inspiring. I have also booked tickets to see Marlon Williams play in June at the St James theatre. I’m going with Kowtow’s Head of Brand, Rachel Turner and Stylist & Photographer Chloe Hill, who shot this piece. We are all such fans of Marlon and cannot wait to see him perform his first Maori language album.
How, if at all, has your personal style changed since the start of your career?
My personal style has definitely evolved since starting at Kowtow. When I first began, I had Zambesi ingrained in my DNA. I was often dressed either in Zambesi or the brands they carry. It was a uniform of sorts, something I really identified with. But coming to Kowtow, I found a freedom in really opening up my design influences. It made me question everything and approach fashion with a refreshed mindset.
It was like a cleansing of my palette. I became open to a wider range of influences and that has introduced me to new brands and a new world of style that continues to inspire the team here.
I still have a love for the brands I wore back then, but my wardrobe has definitely expanded and evolved. It’s less about being locked into one thing and more about exploring what resonates with me now, mixing old and new in ways that feel right.
Who or what are some influences on your personal style?
Right now, on my moodboard is Mark Eydelshteyn, the Russian actor who recently starred in Anora. There’s a youthful energy to the way he dresses – he brings a modern approach to classic pieces, which I find really inspiring. His style is clean, effortless, and still carries a sense of individuality.
Fit five
How would you describe the menswear scene right now in New Zealand?
The menswear scene in New Zealand right now is exciting. I love seeing men walking around Wellington wearing Kowtow. It’s also inspiring to see people supporting the brand internationally too.
It feels like a turning point. Not many local brands are at this stage of introducing a fresh offering to the menswear market and it’s inspiring to see that being embraced by the local community. People here are genuinely supportive, and that energy is driving something special. There’s a real sense of possibility right now in the NZ menswear scene.
It is an interesting thing to see your designs take a life of its own once it’s left the studio and in someone’s wardrobe. What have been some places where you’ve seen your clothes being worn?
I was in Cuba Street having brunch the other day and this very cool guy walked past me wearing the Kowtow Lineup Jersey. It was a moment of pure joy seeing the way he had put it together with his shorts and trainers, it made me feel so humbled.
I recently saw local photographer and artist Harry Culy skateboarding in the Kowtow Riley black denim jeans, on an Instagram story. These jeans were skate inspired and it made me feel so happy, as I really admire his personal style.
I am down at Dunedin ID Fashion Week at present and am a guest judge alongside creative director Dan Ahwa. Dan was wearing the Kowtow Alfie denim jacket the day we did the judging together, he styled a warm cosy jumper underneath, it looked so cool! Made me feel super excited.
Are there any other brands that you’re appreciating at the moment?
I’ve been really inspired by a few brands lately. mfpen, the Danish brand from Copenhagen, is on my radar. I love their relaxed, minimalist approach and oversized silhouettes. As well as their designs, I admire their conscious approach, especially with their use of deadstock fabrics.
I’m also loving Steve Mono, a Spanish leather goods shoe brand we stock at Kowtow. I follow them closely on Instagram and have become fascinated by their design sensibility, there’s a real understated elegance to their pieces. Their shoes are my summer go-to, I also love wearing them with socks in cooler weather. They’re super comfortable.
How do you unwind or escape your design studio for a bit?
To unwind, I make time for regular yoga at Space Yoga, it’s my weekend wind-down ritual. The studio has this peaceful view of the harbour and it’s the perfect escape.
I also love walking my French Bulldog, Angus, around the waterfront – usually twice a day. It’s a great way to decompress and I always make sure to stop in grassy areas where we can both relax. The routine of getting fresh air and just being present is a great release for me.
If you had to wear one outfit for the rest of your life, what would it consist of?
Such a tricky one! Most likely a well cut pair of jeans, a Kowtow denim jacket and a white tee.
Do you have any advice for young creatives looking to make their mark in the industry?
My advice to young creatives would be to follow your passion and trust your own individual instinct. The industry is hard work so be prepared to devote yourself and be committed and keep learning. It’s not an easy road but weathering the storm is part of the journey. It’s about getting experience, learning as you go and always staying curious.
For me, working in retail was a game-changer when I was younger. It gave me a solid grounding in understanding what people were actually buying and the bigger picture of how a brand fits into that market. Learning the whole concept of what the customer wants was invaluable.
What can you tell me about your next collection?
I’m really excited for the menswear pieces that are dropping in our next collection later this year, there’s some really fun colours, textures and proportions.
Right now my head is in designing for the summer 2026 collection, we work 18 months in
advance so we always have our heads in the future.
The collection is inspired by Derek Jarman’s iconic garden. I saw an exhibition of his work at The Dowse and that has inspired the colour palette we are working with.
We’re currently in the phase of perfecting toiles and refining designs – I’m super excited about how it’s coming together.
Follow Dayne @daynemjohnston and Kowtow @kowtowclothing.
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